Wine writers get a bit snooty about no alcohol wines but at Glug the brothers Farmer confess not only to drink them but to quite like them.
We would not claim that the alcohol free processed grape juice has the same taste as the fermented product but its makers do not claim that it does. Which is why I’m puzzled when the wine critics take out their verbal hatchets. Like Will Lyons in The London Times this week posing the question “Why is non-alcoholic wine still so dreadful?”
He might just as well have asked why can’t you make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear.
Mr Lyons should have consulted Google’s Gemini AI. There he would have read:
The Crucial Role of Alcohol in Wine:
- Flavor Carrier: Alcohol isn’t just for the buzz; it’s a fundamental solvent and carrier for many of the aromatic compounds and flavors in wine. When you remove alcohol, you remove a significant part of what makes wine smell and taste like wine.
- Mouthfeel and Body: Alcohol contributes significantly to the body, viscosity, and “weight” of a wine on the palate. Without it, wines can often feel thin, watery, or lack the richness that makes them satisfying. This is particularly challenging for red wines, where tannins (which give a drying sensation) can become overly abrasive without the softening effect of alcohol.
- Balance: Alcohol helps balance acidity and sweetness. When it’s removed, the wine can become overly sweet (if sugar is added to compensate for lost body) or overly sour (as acidity becomes more pronounced).
- Aging Potential: Alcohol acts as a preservative and plays a role in the chemical reactions that allow wine to age and develop complexity over time. Non-alcoholic wines generally don’t age well.
As an old fellow with a few heart problems I prefer to compare like with like. A McGuigan Zero is not the same as a McGuigan Shiraz but is enjoyable nonetheless/.And certainly not deserving of wine writers getting a bit snooty about it.
